Finally got the eyelets into my muslin fit sample. Measurements are 24-16-32 “. I’ve never drafted a non stretch pattern before, but it was pretty simple so far. I have a few issues with the fit which more experienced pattern makers may know about. It seems like this shape is just a little curvier than my skill level.
There are 2 easy fixes:
The back needs to be higher, and the hips need to be smaller.
I would also like to add a closure in the front because it really is annoying to lace in. turning the corset after lacing it on backwards is probably the main reason for the crookedness.
I have already changed the pattern to look less curved and more cone (like the blue line) in the ribs.
You can kind of see that the side panel is tilted in the picture. the top of the panel is skewing, probably because my ribs don’t go out as much as most people who’s corsets I am looking at. My current solution is to take .25 in out of the front center panel and to put it into the back center panel. Is this right?
The front hip panel is where I took most of the extra fabric from in hopes that the seam will have less curve and contour better across the hip. Along with taking .25in out of the top of this panel, this should really straighten out the line.
I am also rearranging the panels without changing the dimensions to see how it affects the hip curve as a second option.
It would be super helpful to hear from some experienced sewers about how wide the back panel needs to be to fit the bones and holes. What size flat boning do you use? With the 16” waist, 1/2” would require some big seam changes. I want to get the steels before doing another fitting to see more proper fit.
ALL INPUT IS APPRECIATED.